Exterior Painting Prep Checklist: 24 Things to Do Before You Start

Inspect all four sides of your home from ground level and use binoculars to check high areas. Note any visible damage, peeling, chalking, or water stains.

Look for darkened areas, efflorescence (white powder), or water running down from soffits, gutters, or roof edges. Check around windows and door frames.

Note whether exterior is wood siding, vinyl, stucco, brick, metal, or composite. Different materials need different prep and paint types.

Photograph each side of your home in good light. Include close-ups of any damage. Save these with dates for reference and documentation.

Flag shutters, decorative trim, mailboxes, light fixtures, hardware, garden beds, or architectural details that need protection or removal.

All painted surfaces should be cleaned to remove dirt, mold, mildew, and loose paint. Pressure should be appropriate for material (lower for wood, higher for concrete).

Remove all loose paint by hand scraping or sanding. Feather edges where old paint meets bare wood. Spot-check by scratching with a coin—paint should not flake.

Use caulk for gaps around trim, windows, and doors. Use wood filler for holes in siding. Exterior-grade products only. Sand smooth after drying.

Any soft, spongy, or split wood should be replaced before painting. This is carpenter work, not painter work—separate estimate.

Any exposed wood, new patched areas, or spots where primer is visible should receive a full coat of exterior-grade primer before topcoat paint.

If existing paint is glossy or semi-gloss, lightly sand or degloss with a deglosser solution to improve new paint adhesion.

If you can feel buildup (thick, ridged paint), discuss stripping options (sanding, chemical stripper, grinding) with your contractor.

Wash with a mold-killing solution. Allow to dry completely. If mold returns within days, moisture/ventilation problems exist and must be fixed first.

Contractor should use drop cloths or plastic sheeting to protect plants, mulch, and garden beds from paint overspray and drips.

All windows, door frames, brick/stone accents, gutters, downspouts, and metal fixtures should be taped or removed before paint starts.

Lights and outlets should be shut off and either removed or fully masked. Soffit/attic vents should be covered.

Cover everything below—ground, driveway, decks, patio. Paint splatters will happen. Proper drop cloth coverage is non-negotiable.

Exterior paint requires 48-72 hours of dry weather to cure properly. Rain within this window ruins the job. Don't start if rain is predicted within 3 days.

Paint doesn't cure properly in cold (below 50°F) or extreme heat (above 85°F). Early morning or late afternoon start times help in hot months.

Even after paint appears dry, harsh sun, rain, or humidity can affect final cure. New paint is vulnerable for up to 4 weeks.

Get a signed contract with specific start and end dates. Confirm crew will be available for the full job if weather delays occur.

Painters need clear access to all exterior areas and room for their van/truck. Move cars from driveway 2-3 days before start date.

Let them know your work hours, when family is home, whether dogs/pets are present, and any entry restrictions (locked gates, alarms).

Pressure washing, scraping, and painting create noise (7 AM–4 PM typical). Fumes dissipate quickly but linger for 1-2 hours. Expect dust inside for 24–48 hours.

Establish how you'll contact the crew (phone, text, email), who the point person is, and when you'll do brief daily walkthroughs to review progress.

Before paint day one, walk the home with the lead painter or crew chief. Review the scope, masking plan, and any concerns. Take notes on agreed details.

Agree in advance: payment due upon completion, after final inspection, or with final 50% withheld until 2-week cure inspection. Get this in the signed contract.